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Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts
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mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
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Topic: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl (Read 17210 times)
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MERCMAN
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Posts: 2497
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #45 on:
May 25, 2020, 06:42:49 PM »
Hi mate,
A 1973 4 cyl 850 powerhead has the same stud pattern as the I6 blocks of the same era. Be careful, gearbox ratio's are different.
I have a feeling the 1971 4 cyl 650 will have a different stud pattern to your original 1967 650 Franken Merc. Maybe not?
FYI, The pistons from an early 650 will fit some of the early 90Ci I6 Mercs
The pistons from a '70's 4 cyl 800 & 850 will fit all 99Ci I6 Mercs. (high HP I6's, have bigger ports (windows) in the sides of the pistons)
MERCMAN.
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antman
Sr. Member
Posts: 45
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #46 on:
May 25, 2020, 07:57:00 PM »
Hi mate
your scaring me
so i took old powerhead out of coffin and it fits the new leg and both blocks say 834-3997
stud pattern matches . thats good hey
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MERCMAN
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Posts: 2497
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #47 on:
May 26, 2020, 09:27:00 AM »
You're in luck! Good work.
MERCMAN.
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antman
Sr. Member
Posts: 45
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #48 on:
May 29, 2020, 05:53:17 PM »
has factory lead seal on crank case bolt
-4017331725166058637.jpg
(1142.25 KB, 2592x1944 - viewed 122 times.)
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antman
Sr. Member
Posts: 45
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #49 on:
May 29, 2020, 06:32:17 PM »
looks good but i think no compression ..49 years old and still a factory seal .never been opened
the guy before rewired stator ,and dizzy
dizzy is stuffed lol , he broke the rotor of the shaft and rewired the internal . now all bulging and also bent disk .hes also removed the flywheel of the pulley
hopefully one of the flywheels of the 850 will do, or i use the old flywheel and stator . i have 2 matching switch boxes for 650
my mate got another 850 so now 4 powerheads and still cheaper than a used block and postage from the states
will steal the dizzy from the 850 its a match for the new 650 but different linkages
1 850 has no lower gearbox unit (apparenly shattered at sea
the other has a crack running from prop toward gearbox underneath 2.5 inches long repairable ?
still a alot of r and d too go
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MERCMAN
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Posts: 2497
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #50 on:
June 01, 2020, 05:21:02 PM »
re the compression.. On the Port side of the block, you should see two transfer port covers. These are held in place with rather large Phillips head screws, remove the screws and gently prise the covers off. This will allow you to look at the sides of the pistons and the rings and look across and you'll see the bore on the other side. To move the pistons, you'll need to re-install the crankshaft key and push the flywheel on by hand. No need to do up the nut for this exercise.
This inspection, is a quick and easy way to determine if the pots or pistons are US or possibly OK?
Something is telling me the firing order of an older 650 and a newer 850 is somewhat different. I would stick with the 650 flywheel.
The crack in the gear case is usually caused by water lying at the bottom of the inside of the hub for a period of time. The "carrier" will expand and then the case (oysters) cracks. If the carrier still has a good seal near the prop, the oil should be still free of water which means the case can be welded (by an ace). If there is ware in the gearbox oil, chuck the lot.
MERCMAN.
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antman
Sr. Member
Posts: 45
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #51 on:
July 27, 2020, 02:34:15 PM »
havnt done much too cold outside
but pulling things apart
these impellers seem to be almost to big for the housing
but same on both legs from 65hp
IMG_20200726_155337582 (2).jpg
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MERCMAN
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Posts: 2497
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #52 on:
July 28, 2020, 08:06:50 AM »
Hi mate,
The impeller is the correct one, albeit requiring replacement. However, I can understand your assumption should you be use to dismantling OMC water pumps.
This Merc impeller is arguably the most interchangeable component (between Merc models) from the early 1960's through to the 2.5ltr Mec V6's of more recent times.
Remember, after you have seated the new impeller on the pump base and are about to press the the pump housing on top of the impeller, make sure you rotate the drive shaft (not prop shaft) clockwise until the housing seats.
If you have any plumbers silicone (for O rings and rubber washers etc) smear it inside the pump housing and onto the top side of the stainless steel pump base plate, before reassembly.
MERCMAN.
«
Last Edit: July 29, 2020, 10:28:15 AM by MERCMAN
»
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antman
Sr. Member
Posts: 45
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #53 on:
July 28, 2020, 04:25:16 PM »
as always thanks
https://youtu.be/hK6qbQwLoMo
link to last run video when it dies
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MERCMAN
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Posts: 2497
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #54 on:
July 29, 2020, 10:29:17 AM »
eek!
That video is hard to watch, I shed a tear.
I note your video says you were at WOT when the seize occurred.
Do you know what RPM you have at WOT? By the sound of your motor, you weren't within the recommended WOT RPM range. This could mean you have a propeller with too much pitch for the given load. This can lead to other nasty issues, if not corrected.
MERCMAN.
«
Last Edit: July 29, 2020, 10:49:28 AM by MERCMAN
»
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antman
Sr. Member
Posts: 45
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #55 on:
July 29, 2020, 04:46:05 PM »
i think 4800-4900
before it was 3600 with the crap prop but this prop had mercury code on it and is 48 77342a4 15p
do you think rev
2 high ?
too low?
or does it sound like its running on 3 cylinders already?
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MERCMAN
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Posts: 2497
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #56 on:
August 01, 2020, 09:04:29 AM »
Hi,
I'm unsure (confused) as to which block you have fitted?
If 4 cyl 850 the recommend WOT range is 4800 to 5500
if 4 cyl 650 the recommended WOT range is 4800 to 5200 or there abouts.
I can't figure why you are only achieving only 4900 with a 15" pitch prop? Have you got the correct gearbox fitted to the block you are running? They are different ratios.
What position is your tilt pin, if hole one, try hole two or three. You hull may have too much wetted surface when planning?
MERCMAN.
«
Last Edit: December 04, 2020, 06:11:57 PM by MERCMAN
»
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antman
Sr. Member
Posts: 45
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #57 on:
December 02, 2020, 10:17:17 PM »
compression test all done .even on all 4 ( 90 psi useing a auto tester with a rubber hose so i think maybe 100-110 with a mercury close fitting one the mechanic had ..... .. cleaned everthing and reassembled .ended up installing my switchbox, rectfier and dissy,used the new rewired stator and flywheel belonging to this powerhead ..i used my stater motor and solinoid .2 x gaskets from the usa.powerhead to exhaust and exhaust to mid section
new impeller carbies cleaned ..cranked timed and linked and sinked .fuel connected started ..idles revs pumps a s---load of water out telltail
hopefully it does what its supposed to do on the water
IMG_20201122_155329871 (3).jpg
(319.06 KB, 612x408 - viewed 27 times.)
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MERCMAN
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Posts: 2497
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #58 on:
December 04, 2020, 06:22:06 PM »
Hi Antman,
Well, I must say.. I really thought you were going to give up at one stage!
That noise you can hear.. is me clapping, well done indeed.
However, you have omitted fitting one small safety device. It's called a Mercury switch, of all things. It interrupts the ignition should you hit an obstacle at speed. It should be mounted diagonally on the side of the Exhaust Chest. I strongly suggest make sure it is fitted and wired correctly.
Trusting your sea trial is successful.
MERCMAN.
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antman
Sr. Member
Posts: 45
Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl
«
Reply #59 on:
December 04, 2020, 07:02:57 PM »
hi mate i did
hard to get rid of a boat with no engine
thanks for the kind words and support
i frankenmerced the frankenmerc
and yes the switch ..there is an outline on the plate of where it was and thats what the red wire was for
i wasnt going to bother but ill take your advise and track one down asap
and then the 65 should be complete back to what it should be even the power head color, silver not black
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