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Author Topic: Capricious - The Project  (Read 72076 times)
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AaronJ
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« Reply #30 on: December 21, 2010, 06:23:24 AM »

Also forgot to add I have now also sourced a forward control, cables, trim/tilt rams and pump.

So that now means I have almost gathered all the key floaty and movey bits....

....not than any of them would actually perform their said role in their current state  Wink

Aaron.
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AaronJ
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« Reply #31 on: January 04, 2011, 08:54:32 PM »

Almost done sanding the hull. Tomorrow should see me ready to start repairs.


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yochemin
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« Reply #32 on: January 05, 2011, 08:51:11 PM »

Must be dusty at your place!
Came across the article I mentioned on roll&tip painting , got some good prep detail , though their paint brands differ slightly .

http://www.fiberglassics.com/latest/paint-it-black

steve
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AaronJ
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« Reply #33 on: January 06, 2011, 08:35:05 AM »

You bet it is. I did most in my workshop (front and rear doors open) until dust got into absolutely everything. So as per the photo, have moved it outside. Have also been pretty careful with a mask, as heck knows what metals are in these old paints.

Thanks for the link too Steve. Still tossing up weather to roll/brush or spray.

Aaron.
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AaronJ
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« Reply #34 on: January 06, 2011, 08:41:14 AM »

Actually I have a question.

I'd like to avoid removing every single inch of the older paint. All the top layers are gone, but some of the original undercoat is pretty tough and well bonded to the gel coat. I understand there are issues with applying 2-pac onto 1-pac. Not knowing what the older layers are I will assume worst case and some is 1-pac.

Is there a primer that will bond to either and then serve as tie coat for the final layers of 2-pac paint?

I also got some advise from and experienced boat builder to not worry about marine specific paints for a trailer boat that will live most of its life out of water and in a garage. He said to fair using automotive filler, high-build primer then paint with automotive 2-pac. Cheaper, easier and bigger range of colours. Any thoughts on this one?

Aaron.
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yochemin
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« Reply #35 on: January 06, 2011, 11:07:18 AM »

Hi Aaron ,
Anything that's to hard to sand off should stay , that's my theory . It gets to hard otherwise .
Unless its got stress fractures or blisters , I'd leave it on.
Before either spraying or tipping put a high build epoxy primer on , International Paints has a good one , high build , easy sand , above or below water ,
called Interprotect .
To test what's on the boat for suitability , pick an out of the way spot , with a blade lightly scratch up about 25mm sq just criss cross , wet some cotton wool or rag with 2 pac thinners , tape over scratched area leave it a few hours . when you remove it  , it may have paint on it or where you scratched may be soft, it's single pac
Stick  a bit of masking tape over the area and rip it off. Nothing comes off it's 2pac
I agree with all but automotive paint . I don't know that much about them , but they like to put a clear over the color , something like Awlgrip ,
blow it on , it levels out , great .
You can put a coat on outdoors in 20 knots of wind and it will still look great . Marine paints have been around a long time , Time was you would just spray a boat on the slipway[pre EPA]no shed , no extractors .
I'm not sure you get enough thickness with car paint [without clear coating as well]
Chances are , if some one has done a nice spray job , it will have been done in 2 pac 
Steve
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slowpoke
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« Reply #36 on: January 06, 2011, 11:51:18 AM »

Good advice Steve, and I am with you on using marine paint and not automotive. I like your recommendations for International & Awlgrip as well.

Aaron, I suggest that any filler you use be an epoxy base which will not shrink like a polyester filler (automotive). It might cost a few extra bob but will save disappointment 6 months down the track when all the auto-filler filled spots have shrunk.

I am a fan of the 2-pack epoxy marine paints. I have been happy with Northane (Norgloss.com.au) and particularly with their 2-pack hi-build primer and topcoats - this gives you an alternative locally made product to use, and they will mix to your colour for a small fee.
If you are looking for a lower cost option check out their 'no-rust' primer. This will stick to anything and can be overcoated by anything.
Ken
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AaronJ
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« Reply #37 on: January 23, 2011, 07:02:29 AM »

Really needed to focus the project as was jumping around too much and not getting far... so the trailer is first (which will give me somewhere to have the boat).

Had to replace the front cross beam and replace a rusted section. The front cross beam still need reinforcing, as this is where the tilt hinge will be. The draw bar will slot up into that open section at the front of the triangle (still need opening up and reinforcing)

The original cross beams are/were 103x35x3mm C-section, which could not be sourced in a standard extrusion (would have had to hand over $$$ to have it bent). So I used 100x50x3mm RHS and sliced off a 100x15mm face to leave the 100x35mm. Its not a perfect match, but will only be spotted by a keen eye once its finished.

My welding is coming along slowly  Smiley

« Last Edit: January 23, 2011, 07:04:08 AM by AaronJ » Logged

AaronJ
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« Reply #38 on: February 13, 2011, 07:32:44 AM »

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yochemin
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« Reply #39 on: February 13, 2011, 07:34:23 PM »

Hi  Aaron ,

This is a nice system I've used to paint steel boats over the years
An american product , but available here : http://www.ppcco.com.au/prevention.htm
It goes a long way , but doesn't store well
it's a choice you have if you don't want to sandblast or gal
I'm doing my old trailer with this
If you decide to go with this , let me know and I'll work out some amounts for you
Bare in mind it is a system , and you need to use all the products till topcoat

steve
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AaronJ
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« Reply #40 on: February 14, 2011, 03:53:20 PM »

Hi Steve,

I've read a bit on the POR15 system. For my use I undertand I'd need to do two coats of POR15 and then two coats of some kind of top coat such as their (as POR15 is not UV stable) such as their Black Coat or Stirling Silver.

Must get pretty Exy ($$$)?

What kind of volumes are you thinking?
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yochemin
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« Reply #41 on: February 14, 2011, 06:13:29 PM »

Hi Aaron

Of the rust preventive paint , maybe a litre to 1.5 for two coats , you can do the axle  and guards
I'd start with a litre
Because you can buy 100ml can , if you run short you don't have to buy another  litre .
They also do a metal fuel tank rust and restore kit if your using Merc tanks
The kit is the same as the trailer products , so you can go wild after the trailer!

Steve
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darrcoll
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« Reply #42 on: February 22, 2011, 08:05:57 PM »

Hi AAron,

Just getting back to the boat painting, I am sure that awl-grip make a primer that will go over single pack to allow 2k products to be applied on top.

keep up the good work

Darrcoll
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AaronJ
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« Reply #43 on: April 01, 2011, 07:24:14 AM »

Ho hum.... slow slow slow progress....

Hoping to get a few trailer hours this weekend if I can get siome more steel (need some 30x5mm bar).

Red Nylon rollers are in from Bias Boating and going to weld up my own brackets for the rollers and skids. Making the brackets out of the 30x50mm and 25x25x3mm outer, 20x20x3mm inner for the hight adjustment. Outer will be spliced into the trailer cross bars to make it look neat.
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Chair
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« Reply #44 on: April 01, 2011, 08:33:55 AM »

Don't forget to show us some pics of your progress Aaron
Chair
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