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1  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: Banshee info wanted on: September 28, 2020, 06:50:00 AM
There is no doubt you are going to get cavitation. However, it depends if you intend on skiing etc.. it will bother you. Is your propeller cupped?
Because I use to race boats, I love the sound and feeling of cavitation and I know how to deal with it. 

I'll send you a PM so you can call me. (I have a new number and email address.)

2  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: Banshee info wanted on: September 24, 2020, 08:54:33 PM
That's real odd. The only explanation I can come up with is your Banshee was built for a 20" motor. These motors were available from Mercury in 1959 and on.

What you need to do is remove your Thumb screws and replace them with engineered replacements, out of s/s threaded rod, having provision for the cup washer to fit on one end and a "milled hex end" at the other end. Note: The milled hex end must be small enough to pass through the cast transom bracket. I suggest the hex end to be milled to suit a SAE ring spanner. This will make it easy to turn is a small space cluttered by the front of your motor, steering gear and the sides of the well.

Here is a pic of what Mercury made in the 70's, for their 4 cyl 850. These were standard! 

Note: One of these genuine Merc parts in the picture, won't fit your 700 (wrong diameter). This picture is just to give you an idea of what I'm proposing to assist you with your dilemma.

If that's too hard, there was a spacer available to turn your Merc into a 20" motor. It's called a pace maker (after market) and it fits between the gearcase and the mid section. You may be lucky enough to find one, but they would be like hens teeth now.

The last option as I see it, is to have your well modified to suit.

3  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Restoration Projects: Underway, Prospects, also Help and Advice / Re: Caribbean galaxy v167 project on: August 17, 2020, 11:38:09 AM
Good work,
She is starting to clean up OK and a beaut' project boat. Sorry, I don't have any info' on your motor.
That Keel will need a bit of work. It's nothing too difficult though.

4  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: Caribbean info needed on: August 03, 2020, 05:14:16 PM
Hello Darrcoll,
I require your advice. I sent you a PM last week. Does your email address remain unchanged?


5  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl on: August 01, 2020, 09:04:29 AM
I'm unsure (confused) as to witch block you have fitted?
If 4 cyl 850 the recommend WOT range is 4800 to 5500
if 4 cyl 650 the recommended WOT range is 4800 to 5200 or there abouts.

I can't figure why you are only achieving only 4900 with a 15" pitch prop?  Have you got the correct gearbox fitted to the block you are running? They are different ratios.
What position is your tilt pin, if hole one, try hole two or three. You hull may have too much wetted surface when planing?

6  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl on: July 29, 2020, 10:29:17 AM
That video is hard to watch, I shed a tear.   Cry

I note your video says you were at WOT when the seize occurred.
Do you know what RPM you have at WOT? By the sound of your motor, you weren't within the recommended WOT RPM range. This could mean you have a propeller with too much pitch for the given load. This can lead to other nasty issues, if not corrected.

7  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl on: July 28, 2020, 08:06:50 AM
Hi mate,
The impeller is the correct one, albeit requiring replacement. However, I can understand your assumption should you be use to dismantling OMC water pumps.

This Merc impeller is arguably the most interchangeable component (between Merc models) from the early 1960's through to the 2.5ltr Mec V6's of more recent times.

Remember, after you have seated the new impeller on the pump base and are about to press the the pump housing on top of the impeller, make sure you rotate the drive shaft (not prop shaft) clockwise until the housing seats.  

If you have any plumbers silicone (for O rings and rubber washers etc) smear it inside the pump housing and onto the top side of the stainless steel pump base plate, before reassembly.

8  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Vintage Racing Outboards / Re: Help on: July 27, 2020, 11:14:21 AM
G'day Dave and Nigel,
Sorry I missed the above transmissions, my Laptop has been with a local tek guy who was installing a new Outlook account for me.

Clearly I have my Laptop back with me now and it's quite working well. (I think it was a fuel blockage lol.)

9  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: Caribbean info needed on: July 22, 2020, 08:15:52 PM
Hi Darrcoll,
How are you old mate? I'm pretty sure it has been has been ages since you have been on this website!

The boat (Formula 233) in the background looks the boat which is (or was) owned by the famous (A380) Qantas Captain: Richard de Crespigny.
I seem to recall the Haines brothers flopped an original (USA) Don Aronow built Formula 233 under licence, many many years ago. In more recent times, (since the demise of the original Haines boat builders including the 233 moulds) Don Aronow built the first Formula 233 in the early to mid 1960's. I believe Eden Craft flopped a Haines 233?

A version of the original Aronow built 233 is still available from Edencraft.  See: https://www.edencraft.com.au/

If the the boat in the background of your pic is, or was Peter's... the real "Neil Armstrong" was a guest of Peter's on Sydney Harbour on that very boat!


10  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: piston ring on: June 12, 2020, 07:59:19 PM
Sadly,a camera won't really view the bores via the exhaust stack.. the final 90 degree bend will prevent it.. I believe!
Try spying in plug holes with a bright LED torch (or camera) to inspect bores for scoring. (number 4 will be difficult. if the block is still on mid section, use a small mirror). Remove all plugs and slowly rotate flywheel by hand, whilst spying.
If all rings in all pots are "springy"as you say, all seems to be OK by me and the likely hood of further/any damage is therefore somewhat minimal.
When you are about to conduct compression comparison, make sure of the following:

Replace transfer port covers.
Make sure throttle is wide open, prior cranking.
Crank motor with the ignition in the "off" position. If you don't know how, simply ask me!
Record individual pot readings. 10 - 15% variant is usually acceptable. Remember, all gauges will reveal different readings, it's the variant (no Neil, not Valiant.  Smiley) you are looking for!


11  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: piston ring on: June 11, 2020, 07:46:10 AM
I would be totally amazed if that's what actually occurred! I suggest you pull the transfer port covers off and check.
It's not one of your mates playing a joke on you, is it?
Maybe refrain from conducting a compression test, just in case you create more damage.

When I was about 15 years old, I took an inlet valve from a four stroke mower to school. When my science teacher arrived at school in his car, I bent over in front of his car and pretended to pick up something from the ground. After the teacher got out of the car, I showed him the valve and I told him it just dropped out his Fiat, as he pulled up. He was most distressed and took his car to a local mechanic at lunchtime. I never found out what the mechanic told him. hehe.

12  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: Ď62 Merc 700 on: June 01, 2020, 05:31:55 PM
The colour match to Mercury Cloud white is an automotive colour called Ford - Wimbledon White.
For decals, go to www.nymarine.ca
As for painting tips of outboards there are many on the interweb. Here is one I found, following a quick search.

First rule of painting any surface of an Outboard motor that is going to be exposed to the elements especially salt water is preparation. You are going to need a few different grits of sandpaper starting from a course 120 grit to a 400 or even 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Start with a 120 grit to sand the entire Outboard motor starting just below the Cowling or top cover. Using a small orbital or finisher sander would work the best for removing the old warn out paint.

Take your time when doing the prep work and in about a day your outboard motor will look like it just came off the factory line.  If you purchased pre-cut sheets of sandpaper you will save yourself a little bit of time but the cheapest would be buying full sheets of sandpaper and cutting it into quarter sheets. For the first step of sanding place your a quarter sheet on your sander and start sanding from the top and work your way down to the skeg on your outboard. Donít press to hard on your sander let it do most of the work as you donít want to etch any patterns into your outboard. When you have a majority of the motor sanded using the orbital set that aside and finish the rest up by hand. Note you donít have to get all the paint off just enough that all surfaces have been sanded throughly.

Repeat the same steps as above but now switch to a 200 grit on your orbital. If you have an air compressor keep the surface dust free as much as possible by blowing off the motor every few minutes. This helps keep the surface of your outboard clean and easier to sand and prolongs the sandpaper so it doesnít get all clogged up. When your done with the major sanding once again go over all the smaller areas by hand.

Finally get your wet/dry 400 grit sandpaper out and a bucket of water for your last step of sanding. Keep the surface of your outboard wet and go over everything by hand. This may be a step that you want to skip but this is what will give you that nice smooth mirror like finish on your paint job so take your time. You will notice as you sand the surface it will start to fell like glass which is what your going for. When everything has been sanded take your garden hose spray your outboard off and if you run your hand over the motor you shouldnít feel any rough spots. Now your ready for your primer paint.

Primer is very important to use as it helps to adhere your final spray paint to the motor. Hold your spray can of primer about eight inches away from the surface and remember to keep it moving when laying down your base coat. If you do have any runs or drips you can always wait till it dries and use your wet/dry sandpaper to smooth that down so donít worry if you mess up a bit it happens. When your outboard is completely covered in primer let it dry for about 3 hours in the direct sunlight. This will insure a permanent bond and help with final coat.

When the primer is completely dry your now ready to spray your outboard using your choice of spray paint. Donít rush this step as any drips and runs now will have to be sanded down so you get the professional look your going for. Your basically going to try and get 2 coats of paint down for your final spray, but unlike your primer you really only have to wait about 15 Ė 30 minutes between spraying. Make sure everything is covered take a really close look to make sure you have not missed any spots on your outboard while also make sure any holes that are on your case are not clogged with paint. If you do have any donít worry just take a paper clip bend that straight out and remove any paint. Now your ready to let it sit and cure. After a couple hours you can lay down your clear coat. This will really help protect your new paint job as well as your motor. If you have a white paint job it may be a bit difficult to see the clear going on but just like before keep your hand moving so avoid any drips or runs.


13  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: mercury 650ss 1967 4 cyl on: June 01, 2020, 05:21:02 PM
re the compression.. On the Port side of the block, you should see two transfer port covers. These are held in place with rather large Phillips head screws, remove the screws and gently prise the covers off. This will allow you to look at the sides of the pistons and the rings and look across and you'll see the bore on the other side. To move the pistons, you'll need to re-install the crankshaft key and push the flywheel on by hand. No need to do up the nut for this exercise.
This inspection, is a quick and easy way to determine if the pots or pistons are US or possibly OK?
Something is telling me the firing order of an older 650 and a newer 850 is somewhat different. I would stick with the 650 flywheel.

The crack in the gear case is usually caused by water lying at the bottom of the inside of the hub for a period of time. The "carrier" will expand and then the case (oysters) cracks. If the carrier still has a good seal near the prop, the oil should be still free of water which means the case can be welded (by an ace). If there is ware in the gearbox oil, chuck the lot.

14  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: Caribbean info needed on: May 29, 2020, 10:57:54 AM
Either motor will go OK on that hull, as you suspect.
However, there are quite a number of merc/mariner gearboxes which will fit straight on to your 500. Is your 500 a long or short shaft? I feel it will be short shaft.

Is it the gear housing that's US or the internals, owing to water damage?

15  Vintage Australian Outboard Runabouts / Information Wanted / Re: Caribbean info needed on: May 26, 2020, 02:15:33 PM
Welcome to our forum,
I'm not too helpful with your hull. However, we have a few members who should be able to assist you.

By the way, your 50hp Merc is a 1973 model, much younger than the hull.

Please feel free to post progress photo's.. we all love pics.

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