Hi All , I had mention that my knowledge of boats was minimal, however repairing and working with fiberglass was not.
I transfered this topic from my other thread and hope it will help others doing this.
I also have now the opportunity to "show" off my Electra's new cut and polish!!
I removed the number stickers but not the name, as the name vinyl was in good condition.
I then got my polishing grinder with a foam pad and hit it with number 2 cut and polish .
Polished windscreen , vinyl lettering and entire boat, result was incredible!
I tried to install the outboard and saw that the holes in the transom were not matching from Brand to Brand , furthermore had 2 extra holes on the back for the attachment of the hydraulic pump.
I first got out my trusty Dremmel and grinded of an area around the holes of about the size of a 50 cant piece, next I drilled out to 12.7mm the existing holes so that they were clean from any silicon or rotted timber.
Bought standard hardwood stick from Bunnings and cut dowels 3 mms shorter than hole from either side.
Prepared a mix of resin , dipped the dowels in the mix and hammered them into place , recessing them the above mentioned 3mm.
cleaned out area with acetone and sanded a larger section of the transom around the holes with a 400 to 600 grit wet sandpaper
takes no time to dry..... next is a dual layer of fiberglass sheeting, meaning 2 pieces of circle were cut out of fiberglass and resin in place for each hole and for either side.
It is best to be over flush to the body of the boat, so later it can be sanded down with a dry 120 or 80 grit and preferably an electric flat sander.
You will take off most of the overlapping resin and fiberglass leaving only the repaired hole.
Since the end result was going to be executed in 2 pack paint, it is important that from now on ALL products are compatible with 2 pack and not acrylic.
Car putty or carbog was used as I left more of an indentation in the body after sanding the fiberglass, if this happens , you must use this as red or filler putty will shrink.
After sanding down the "carbog" a light film of red filling putty was used to cover up any pitting caused by the car bog.
If you sand down correctly the fiberglass you should be able to skip this stage.
NOTE: when working in this step, mask out a reasonalbe section of the repair, so all sanding and spraying is not enlarged over the area originally worked on.
Next I used 2 pack high fill primer, this primer is a 2 part paint which dries rock hard allowing the 2 pack NOT to crack.
This is the difference to the acrylic primer, also note that 2 pack paint hardeners are completely harmful if not used with a respirator.
If you are repairing small dents and holes , you can easily do this on a hot day , no oven is needed to achieve the following results.
I got the colour matched in a little can , this is called a solid colour because it is mixed with the clear.
Minimal to no sanding or buffing is needed after spraying 2 pack paint.
In the next shot you will see the recent spray job , this was feathered out to the existing body and NOT masked out, only the sides of the repairs will be buffed out.
Result is incredible, paint was perfectly matched only thing left is polishing the sides and surroundings of the repair shown here, but you can see the spray job.
then I drilled out 13mm new Evinrude holes, silicon in the new stainless bolts, applied antiseize and here you go!
I hope this helps in any way , and if you need any advise on this repair , please contact me..